We left Townsville in early August after yet another crew change and headed to Orpheus Island, where a visit to the Research Station is well worthwhile (although we were disappointed that all the Giant Clams in the bay had died off the previous year as a result of the floods). Hinchinbrook Island (above) is always one of my favourite spots, where you can get your toes nibbled by Jungle Perch at the base of Zoe Falls or just marvel at what I call the ‘Tahiti of the Queensland Coast’. Goold, Dunk and Fitzroy Islands were all visited, with the majority offering lovely hikes to the top of the island and their panoramic views — but the last-named island (Fitzroy) allows yachties to visit the resort’s pub (which we did whilst watching whales frolicking around in the anchorage, and in between the boats!). As we passed by Cairns, we entered territory that I had never sailed through before. We called into Port Douglas to reprovision and then headed out to the Low Isles, where the snorkelling was excellent and the wildlife was abundant (nesting Ospreys, Boobys, Kingfishers and, whilst walking through the reef at low tide, Moray Eels (left) — eek! The Hope Islands — so named by Cook after his grounding on the nearby reef — were our last stop before entering the Endeavour River at Cooktown. The history of this town, of course, is centred around the careening of Cook’s “Endeavour” bark in 1770 and there is a great museum in town with one of the jettisoned cannons and an anchor that were recovered from the reef in 1969. Our fourth crew change took place here. The ever-present sou’easterly trade winds intensified north of Cooktown and this leg to Cape York saw us achieve the most sailing of any of our legs so far — 78%! However, a big blow had us holed up at Lizard Island for seven days, which at least enabled us to walk up to “Cook’s Lookout” (quite a hike!), snorkel around the substantial reefs in Watson’s Bay, visit the Blue Lagoon and frequent the ‘Marlin Bar’. We eventually escaped and a brisk downwind sail had us anchored at the impressive rock-strewn Cape Melville … … and, as we continued north, we popped into Flinders Island and visited the significant rock art in the caves on Stanley Island. Mainsheet 2026 Royal Queensland Yacht Squadron Yearbook 62 Anti-clockwise around AUS!
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